The term coined by the locals 'you got to drive like an Indian' is dreadfully frightening. The Indians see roads as one big road. They ignore lines on the road and everyone zigzags to get to their destination. It's common to see people travelling against traffic. Bullock carts, auto and cycle rickshaws, people walking in the middle of traffic. Anything goes!
I think the most death defying thing I did was crossing a 3-lane road in peak hour moving traffic by following a friend. Twice! No such thing as lights for pedestrians.
Old Delhi is very gritty and dusty. The wholesale bazaars are aplenty and very difficult to move through dodging moving vehicles.
I've had my taste of the auto rickshaw and cycle rickshaw.
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